Big Cereal Gives Frooty Words the Business

I have written in the past about the high margin-to-cost of the breakfast cereal business. I also think a lot about the words Big Cereal uses to sell its product, specifically the pervasive use of fruity words in naming breakfast cereals.

If I had just ten seconds to share advice on improving your nutrition, I would encourage you to eat more foods like fruits and vegetables (and beans, nuts, and seeds). And I don’t think that would surprise anyone. If you’ve been reading my blog, you know these are nutritional powerhouses, and you know that it’s a good idea to eat more of them, especially since most Americans don’t eat enough produce to begin with.

Big Food, the ultra processed food industry, knows this, too. They know that you know that your health would benefit from eating more fruits and vegetables. That’s why so many ultra processed items contain some version of the word “fruit” and examples from the fruit family. To a certain extent, it’s true for vegetables, too: think “vegetable” oil (exactly which “vegetable” is that?), though not exactly the same because who wants to eat a box of asparagus crisps or spinach wafers for breakfast? But it’s a big issue for fruit, because fruit is sweet, and sugar makes us want to buy more.

So that’s why the cereal (and candy) aisles contain items like “Froot” loops, fruit roll-ups, Tootsie frootie rolls! Fruity pebbles! The list goes on and on and on; it’s truly theatre of the absurd in the breakfast cereal aisle.

You can buy apple jacks and apple raisin crisp, apple zings, apple zingaroos, strawberry chex, apple cinnamon chex, cap’n crunch crunch berries, Boo-Berry, banana nut cheerios, berry burst cheerios, banana frosted flakes, bite-size frosted blueberry muffin, frosted mini-wheats strawberry delight, cranberry almond crunch, Fruit ’n Fibre, Fruit & nut granola cereal, honey bunches of oats with peaches, and berry-berry six. That’s just for starters. All of these have been available for purchase at one time or another.

Then there’s raisin bran (one of the highest sugar cereals on the market), and total raisin bran, apple cinnamon rice krispies, berry krispies, fruity marshmallow krispies, strawberry rice krispies, strawberry shortcake, Special K Red Berries, Special K Fruit and Yogurt, and Total Cranberry Crunch. You are getting the picture. It’s one thing to eat a strawberry. It’s entirely different when you eat frosted mini-wheats strawberry delight, with its fruity name. It’s definitely not a strawberry. Maybe it’s closer to a berry made of straw.

The Weight Watchers system considers fresh fruits and vegetables “free,” meaning that there is no limit to how many of them you can eat. They do not cost any of your daily point allotment. 

That is not the case for “blueberry oat clusters.” I’m not saying you can’t eat them. I’m saying they don’t nourish you.


YOUR HEALTHY PLATE: Apple Pie Muffins for the Fourth!

If you’d like to make a dessert that captures the feel of July fourth, try these apple muffins from Honest Cooking and Travel. They have a streusel topping reminiscent of some fancy apple pie recipes I’ve seen, but feel free to substitute graham cracker crumbs if you like. Save one for yourself for breakfast tomorrow morning, along with your cup of tea or coffee. Continue reading


Chemistry Experiments Disguised as Food

It’s not always easy to figure out what’s food and what’s manufactured calories. Some items have the best names, names that make it seem as if the product is definitely food, and quite nourishing at that. So I didn’t realize that Nutrigrain bars had 52 ingredients until someone pointed it out to me. That’s not food, that’s a chemistry experiment. Continue reading


A Quantity of Commodities

Some time ago, Michael Ruhlman lent me a book by Chef Dan Barber called The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food. It took me a long time to get through the book, primarily because it made me think so hard that I could read barely one chapter at a time. In 2009, the same year I started writing Your Health is on Your Plate, TIME Magazine named Dan Barber as one of the 100 most influential people in the world.

Third Plate got me thinking about the fact that mainstream America survives not on nutritious food but, instead, on a commodity-based diet. When goods and services are traded on the grand scale for other goods and services, they become commodities. The primary characteristic of a commodity is that its price is determined not by quality but, rather, quantity. A commodity meets explicit contractual requirements unrelated to the product’s nutritive value or taste, so that the source and nutritional quality of the product become, essentially, irrelevant. Commodities from different producers are of more-or-less uniform quality and, therefore, considered equivalent. Food-based commodities include white flour, sugar, soybean oil, degerminated corn meal, corn syrup, and corn starch. Other kinds of commodities include coal, gold, silver, iron ore, and aluminum. Continue reading


Your Healthy Grocery Cart

The other day, a thought crossed my mind. Maybe we’re focused on the wrong part of the equation: Maybe the time for constructive decision-making about what we eat is not when it’s time to prepare the food, but when it’s time to purchase the food. Waiting until you’re hungry for dinner is like chasing a horse after it’s left the barn. That’s why I want to start this conversation by examining the standard shopping cart. Continue reading


Big Food: The Industrialization of What You Eat

What does it mean to be nourished? The word nutrition, related to “nourish,” comes from nutrire (Latin), meaning to feed, support, nurture, and also nurse. “Food,” from foda (Old English), is related to “fodder” and “feed,” and means nourishment or fuel. The purpose of food is to nourish. There is a fair bit of controversy about what constitutes good nutrition, but most successful strategies recommend increasing high-fiber foods like produce, legumes, and whole grains, while simultaneously decreasing ultraprocessed items like chips, commercially baked items, and “fast” food.  Continue reading


YOUR HEALTHY PLATE: Lentil Soup with a Splash

I’ve come across a really good and relatively simple recipe for lentil soup, and thought I’d share it right away before I misplace it! I wish I knew where I got it from, but that information will sadly have to wait until I figure it out and can add it to this post. I made this recipe for the first time on a rainy day in early spring a few weeks back, and was so pleased with the results that I decided to write a post about it. Lentils are a special food, a special type of legume, with all kinds of important benefits for your health. And they taste good. Continue reading


The Trouble With Angel Food Cake

Have you ever worked with someone whose actions made you hear your mom’s voice inside your head saying things like “Everyone gets a turn,” or even “Let’s be nice”? When my friend Dee’s kids complained about the seemingly unjust behavior of certain teachers or neighbors, she would suggest they consider them “negative role models.” Just as it’s important to have good examples in your life, it’s also valuable to have examples of behaviors you would rather avoid.

Year in and year out, I post recipes that have a lot going for them. I am always on the lookout for good examples of nourishing recipes made from whole foodstuffs, with plenty of produce, legumes, nourishing fats, and high-quality protein. Today I am trying a different approach: I am dissecting a recipe that has nothing going for it. This angel food cake mix is a negative role model. Its best use is as an example of what not to eat. Continue reading


YOUR HEALTHY PLATE: Grains and Greens

This is a recipe that features the grain you feel like eating today*, the greens that are in season, and whatever vegetables you are in the mood to sautè. For this particular version, I chose quinoa, red peppers, and spinach, but you can saunter through your kitchen, gather up your choices, and start chopping. If you get your veggies organized, and do your chopping early in the day, you’ll be able to throw this meal together quickly. And if you make the grains the evening or weekend before, you’ll feel like a pro when everything comes together in just a few minutes. Continue reading


Stripped Carbs and White Powder

Have you ever thought about the fact that white flour, potato starch, confectioner’s sugar, and corn starch look remarkably similar, essentially identical? They have all been converted to a pile of white powder. What these examples have in common is that they have been ultraprocessed in such a way as to change their unique individual identities until all that remains, in each case, is a pile of stripped carbohydrate.  Continue reading