Dried Fruit–The Original Fast Food

People frequently mention that they are unsure about whether they should eat dried fruit. They are usually worried about the amount of sugar. The bottom line is that it’s not a big problem.

There are a number of ways to approach this issue. One would be to ask yourself if your great-grand ancestors ate dried fruit, if they would have considered it food. The answer to this question would, of course, be yes. You could also ask yourself if dried fruit was invented in the 20th century. And the answer would, of course, be no. 

As long as there have been bushes and vines, sunshine, trees, and rain, there has been dried fruit. But is dried fruit high in sugar, or not? The short answer is yes. But there is more to consider. 

To dry fruit is to dehydrate it. The process of dehydration removes water, but not fiber. And not sugar either. This means that the amount of sugar in an apple, peach, grape, or plum remains constant. But a constant amount of sugar in a smaller amount of water means that the fruit sugar becomes more concentrated as the amount of water decreases. So then, yes, it is true that when fruit dries, a pound of dried apricots contains more sugar than a pound of fresh apricots. But one dried apricot contains the same amount of fruit as one fresh apricot.

Another important thing to know is that fruit sugar is trapped within a fiber matrix. When you eat a piece of fruit, fresh or dry, it takes work to break apart that matrix and get the sugar out. This markedly slows the rate at which sugar is released into the blood stream.

Dried fruits are higher in sugar than foods like hard-boiled eggs, almonds, and turkey jerky. But if you compare dried apricots or raisins with candy bars, yogurt with high-fructose corn syrup, or even a store-bought bran muffin, then dried fruit is not nearly as high in sugar.

If you have a medical condition related to sugar metabolism (e.g., hypoglycemia, diabetes, or pre-diabetes), then you may not tolerate dried fruit any better than you tolerate fresh fruit. But if you can eat an apple without any problems, then you likely can eat dried apple slices just as well. If you drink a glass of water with your slices of dried apple, that’s pretty close to simply eating a fresh apple in the first place.

If you’re concerned about how dried fruit affects your blood sugars, you can check your blood sugars about an hour after your snack. If they’re higher than you would like, there are several options. For one thing, you could reduce the amount you eat. Or you could eat it with some peanut butter or dark chocolate, to cut the rate of absorption. Or you could avoid the highest sugar-containing dried fruits, like pineapple, in favor of fruits with less sugar, like apple. 

When you want a snack, try reaching for some dried fruit, maybe with nuts or seeds, instead of ultraprocessed breakfast cereals, cereal bars, granola bars, and sweetened yogurt. Sugar within a fiber matrix is different than sugar without one. Ultraprocessed items don’t contain a fiber matrix.


Chocolate Mousse

What follows is a true story. It really happened, and you can draw your own conclusions.

Many years ago, my daughter and I ventured out on a snowy evening in January and returned home with the sweetest, gentlest, eight-week-old Labrador Retriever puppy. We named our new chocolate lab Mousse. Mousse played ball; Mousse cuddled with the children; Mousse helped me weed the garden; Mousse stole food from the kitchen table when she thought no one was looking; Mousse hung out with the chickens and enjoyed visiting with our friends and neighbors, both human and canine. Mousse became family, and all was well.

When, years later, Mousse turned ten, I noticed that her coat wasn’t quite as shiny, and she was starting to get some dandruff. We decided to begin adding canola oil to the duck-and-potato kibble that Mousse had been eating since she was two. Why canola? We picked canola oil primarily for the economics. It seemed silly to buy high-quality oil for a dog, even Mousse. I wasn’t exactly sure how I felt about canola, but it seemed a reasonable compromise. And why duck-and-potato kibble? It turned out to be the most reliable way to get rid of the chronic ear infections from which she suffered when she was little.

After a few weeks of canola oil, the dandruff began to disappear and Mousse’s coat became shiny again. She was getting older, though, and definitely stiffer, especially in the mornings.

Then there was a big sale at the supermarket and we decided, on a whim, to try corn oil instead of canola. Just like with the canola oil, we poured a couple tablespoons of corn oil on Mousse’s kibble every day. Within days, she was so stiff that she could barely propel herself up and out in the mornings. Climbing stairs became out of the question. We were horrified. This situation called for drastic action.

We switched immediately to olive oil, hoping it would help her joints heal, and that is exactly what happened. Within a couple weeks, her joints were flexible again. She was rising easily in the mornings, and she didn’t seem to be in pain anymore. We were thrilled. It felt like magic. Although she didn’t heal completely — she no longer climbed the stairs to the second floor, for example — she was, for the most part, back to normal. 

At this point, we switched back to canola oil, promising ourselves never to use corn oil again. But what happened next shocked us: Within just a few days, Mousse’s joints began to stiffen up again. Though it was not as dramatic as it had been following the addition of corn oil to her diet, it was clear to us that things were worsening once again. We went back to the olive oil, and once again she healed. We gave the canola another try, and once more she became stiff. We returned to the olive oil, once and for all.

Here is what you need to know about products like corn oil. Corn oil is high in omega-6 fatty acids, which are strongly pro-inflammatory. Just as we need omega-3’s to reduce inflammation in our bodies, we need omega-6’s to cause inflammation, to help our immune system fight foreign invaders. It’s a balance, which we get exactly right when we eat corn on the cob, whole-grain corn meal, and the like. It’s the same scenario with soybean oil: Edamame, tofu and miso provide exactly the right balance of omega-6’s and omega-3’s, but commodity-based seed oil products, like corn oil, soybean oil, “vegetable” oil and, most especially, cottonseed oil, are sky-high in the omega-6’s that increase inflammation.

Until this experience with our beloved chocolate Mousse, I reserved judgment on “canola” oil, an acronym of sorts derived from CANadian OiL Association. But not anymore. Whatever canola oil is, it no longer has a place in my kitchen. And I no longer wonder if corn oil is having a negative effect on the health of my friends and patients — to me, the answer is clear.


Big Cereal Gives Frooty Words the Business

I have written in the past about the high margin-to-cost of the breakfast cereal business. I also think a lot about the words Big Cereal uses to sell its product, specifically the pervasive use of fruity words in naming breakfast cereals. Continue reading


YOUR HEALTHY PLATE: Apple Pie Muffins for the Fourth!

If you’d like to make a dessert that captures the feel of July fourth, try these apple muffins from Honest Cooking and Travel. They have a streusel topping reminiscent of some fancy apple pie recipes I’ve seen, but feel free to substitute graham cracker crumbs if you like. Save one for yourself for breakfast tomorrow morning, along with your cup of tea or coffee. Continue reading


Chemistry Experiments Disguised as Food

It’s not always easy to figure out what’s food and what’s manufactured calories. Some items have the best names, names that make it seem as if the product is definitely food, and quite nourishing at that. So I didn’t realize that Nutrigrain bars had 52 ingredients until someone pointed it out to me. That’s not food, that’s a chemistry experiment. Continue reading


A Quantity of Commodities

Some time ago, Michael Ruhlman lent me a book by Chef Dan Barber called The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food. It took me a long time to get through the book, primarily because it made me think so hard that I could read barely one chapter at a time. In 2009, the same year I started writing Your Health is on Your Plate, TIME Magazine named Dan Barber as one of the 100 most influential people in the world.

Third Plate got me thinking about the fact that mainstream America survives not on nutritious food but, instead, on a commodity-based diet. When goods and services are traded on the grand scale for other goods and services, they become commodities. The primary characteristic of a commodity is that its price is determined not by quality but, rather, quantity. A commodity meets explicit contractual requirements unrelated to the product’s nutritive value or taste, so that the source and nutritional quality of the product become, essentially, irrelevant. Commodities from different producers are of more-or-less uniform quality and, therefore, considered equivalent. Food-based commodities include white flour, sugar, soybean oil, degerminated corn meal, corn syrup, and corn starch. Other kinds of commodities include coal, gold, silver, iron ore, and aluminum. Continue reading


Your Healthy Grocery Cart

The other day, a thought crossed my mind. Maybe we’re focused on the wrong part of the equation: Maybe the time for constructive decision-making about what we eat is not when it’s time to prepare the food, but when it’s time to purchase the food. Waiting until you’re hungry for dinner is like chasing a horse after it’s left the barn. That’s why I want to start this conversation by examining the standard shopping cart. Continue reading


Big Food: The Industrialization of What You Eat

What does it mean to be nourished? The word nutrition, related to “nourish,” comes from nutrire (Latin), meaning to feed, support, nurture, and also nurse. “Food,” from foda (Old English), is related to “fodder” and “feed,” and means nourishment or fuel. The purpose of food is to nourish. There is a fair bit of controversy about what constitutes good nutrition, but most successful strategies recommend increasing high-fiber foods like produce, legumes, and whole grains, while simultaneously decreasing ultraprocessed items like chips, commercially baked items, and “fast” food.  Continue reading


YOUR HEALTHY PLATE: Lentil Soup with a Splash

I’ve come across a really good and relatively simple recipe for lentil soup, and thought I’d share it right away before I misplace it! I wish I knew where I got it from, but that information will sadly have to wait until I figure it out and can add it to this post. I made this recipe for the first time on a rainy day in early spring a few weeks back, and was so pleased with the results that I decided to write a post about it. Lentils are a special food, a special type of legume, with all kinds of important benefits for your health. And they taste good. Continue reading


The Trouble With Angel Food Cake

Have you ever worked with someone whose actions made you hear your mom’s voice inside your head saying things like “Everyone gets a turn,” or even “Let’s be nice”? When my friend Dee’s kids complained about the seemingly unjust behavior of certain teachers or neighbors, she would suggest they consider them “negative role models.” Just as it’s important to have good examples in your life, it’s also valuable to have examples of behaviors you would rather avoid.

Year in and year out, I post recipes that have a lot going for them. I am always on the lookout for good examples of nourishing recipes made from whole foodstuffs, with plenty of produce, legumes, nourishing fats, and high-quality protein. Today I am trying a different approach: I am dissecting a recipe that has nothing going for it. This angel food cake mix is a negative role model. Its best use is as an example of what not to eat. Continue reading